Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Days 7, 8, and 9 - Chama, Taos, Chimayo - New Mexico

Now we come to the part of the trip that was most memorable and inspiring to me. I want to come back to this area and stay for a week or more in some bed and breakfast to explore it further.
Leaving Durango we seemed to be about the only ones on the road for most of the day. We drove through our highest elevations on highway 160 as we crossed from Colorado into New Mexico. Reaching the small village of Chama, New Mexico was a delightful breaking point. Chama is the start of another historic rail tour. Next time back I want to explore the Colorado/New Mexico border on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Here are pictures of Chama where the ride begins:


The structure above is a coal tipple. Chama is a coal mining area.

Leaving Chama, we drove many more miles alone through the desert until we reached the outskirts of Taos, New Mexico. I was interested in Taos because it is an artists' community. We explored some art galleries and museums, but my attention was much more focused on the architecture of the area. Now I want a little adobe with clay floors (smile). In the desert approach to the town, we began to see a community that looked like very strange underground homes with solar panels. The homes were all spread far apart, but still a community of homes called "Earthships" - "green" homes made of recycled materials. Here are a couple of pictures of "Earthships" as well as the natural wonder they are adjacent to: the Rio Grande Gorge:



The rest stop below overlooks the Rio Grand Gorge and land that probably has buffalo roaming on it. Though we didn't see any, the docent who later led us through Taos Indian Pueblo indicated that their buffalo range was out this way.
Below is some of the ancient and perhaps some of the new architecture of the village of Taos. We walked around in the historic district a couple of times. We tried to go to the Taos Gallery on Bent street where Seamus Berkeley (a Berkeley artist acquaintance) has some of his work. Unfortunately it was closed on the days we were there. I fell in love with the adobe structures made of clay mud with straw showing. Below is a cantina in a building we were told was Taos' oldest structure.


The buildings below may be newer, but they still has the flavor of an old structure. The mural on the side of the first one catches attention.


This one is part of the old town square, so it may be old. I just don't know.

On the second morning of our visit to Taos, we explored the ancient Taos Indian Pueblo. The docent was a native woman and shared with us the traditions and history of the pueblo. On these ancient grounds, both here and at other ancient native American grounds, one develops a profound sense of respect and reverence for the people and their land. Even the dogs that ran free range in the Pueblo seemed to carry the same respect we offer humans. This was the most moving part of the entire vacation for me. Let me remind you here to please not make copies of my pictures. Cameras (and artists) have to be registered when entering the village.
There are two large structures (like condominium buildings) within the walls of the pueblo. This one has their sacred mountain in the background, from whence flows the water they live on that flows through the pueblo and splits into two streams there. We were cautioned not to wade in their drinking water and to not feed their dogs. That was not our responsibility. I believe the snowcapped sacred mountain is Wheeler Mountain. The Pueblo owns the lands from the Mountain, through their hunting grounds and into the pueblo village. The Taos Pueblo people make annual pilgrimages to the top of the mountain. Though the men design and build the pueblo's structures, the women are responsible for designing the ovens such as the ones pictured below.
This ancient cemetery, below, is no longer used. It is only entered by the Pueblo Indians on special occasions and only in ceremonial dress.

Our next journey was a few hours down the road from Taos to Espanola where we went into the countryside to a small historical village called Chimayo. Below are some of the pictures from this interesting village specializing in weaving by local artist.
The next two pictures were probably taken somewhere along the drive between Taos and Chimayo, but I don't remember where:

Chimayo was a unique little village with interesting history and buildings.








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